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Textile panel

Title	Textile panel
Author	Unknown
Publication Date:	1770
Publication Place	Azerbaijan (Made) -
Subject	Textiles
Type	Other
Language	Undetermined
Digital	Yes
Manuscript	No
Physical Dimensions	Height: 750mm, Width: 730mm
Library:	Victoria and Albert Museum
Library Asset ID	T.50-1940
Record ID	T.50-1940
Library Location	Middle East Section
Date	1770
Notes	Middle East, Textile; Panel, silk-embroidered cotton, packed design of four-armed swastikas in diagonal stripe formation against black ground, Azerbaijan or NW Iran, possibly 1770-1800
Malzemeler ve teknikler	Cotton yarn, silk thread, weaving, roller-printing, embroidering, sewing Cotton Yarn Silk Thread Weaving Roller-Printing Embroidery Sewing
Fiziksel açıklama	Plain weave cotton embroidered with silk in surface darning on the diagonal and running stitch, backed with roller-printed plain weave cotton and faced with bias-cut woven silk. Much of the ground has been re-worked in tambour stitch. This means that the backing was not in place while the tambour stitch was worked; it is probable that the roller printed cottons are of a later date. The black ground has diagonal lines of four-pointed stars each containing a swastika with a diamond centre. The colours of the lines alternate. From lower left to upper right: [1] blue star with white swastika and dark red star with white swastika; [2] pink star with dark blue swastika and orange star with cream swastika. The border is a blue ground with a line of pink cartouches and dark red octagonal stars. The backing consists of two pieces of roller-printed cotton. The larger section has a white ground almost entirely covered with grey leaves with small dark red flower heads. The smaller piece also has a white ground, with tiny flower heads with red centres, and dark purple leaves and purple coral-like patterns. The facing is in striped woven silk: [a] white ground with two types of small floral sprig in pink and green [b] red ground with two different small floral sprigs in green. There are narrow yellow and green stripes between [a] and [b]. Colours (Embroidery threads, 2S silk): orange, blue, dark blue, dark red, pink, black, white, cream and possibly other shades of off-white; (Backing): white, grey, red, dark red, purple; (Facing): white, pink, green, red, yellow.
Üretim	This embroidery belongs to Group 3 as described by Jennifer Wearden, 'Azerbaijanian Embroideries: A Synthesis of Contrasts', Hali 59 (1991) pp. 102-111. Group 3 textiles are characterised by surface darning on the diagonal and date from the middle of the 18th century into the early part of the 19th century. A similar piece, catalogued as 17th/18th century, is Inv. No. 15-420 in the Iparmuveszeti Muzeum, Budapest. It was published by Zsuzsa Gombos in 'Azerbaijan', Hali 26 (April 1985) pp.26-29.
Üslup	Caucasian

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Victoria and Albert Museum

Textile panel

Author Unknown

Publication Date 1770

Publication Place Azerbaijan (Made) -

Subject Textiles

Type Other

Language Undetermined

Digital Yes

Manuscript No

Physical Dimensions Height: 750mm, Width: 730mm

Library Victoria and Albert Museum

Library Asset ID T.50-1940

Record ID T.50-1940

Library Location Middle East Section

Date 1770

Notes Middle East, Textile; Panel, silk-embroidered cotton, packed design of four-armed swastikas in diagonal stripe formation against black ground, Azerbaijan or NW Iran, possibly 1770-1800

Malzemeler ve teknikler Cotton yarn, silk thread, weaving, roller-printing, embroidering, sewing Cotton Yarn Silk Thread Weaving Roller-Printing Embroidery Sewing

Fiziksel açıklama Plain weave cotton embroidered with silk in surface darning on the diagonal and running stitch, backed with roller-printed plain weave cotton and faced with bias-cut woven silk. Much of the ground has been re-worked in tambour stitch. This means that the backing was not in place while the tambour stitch was worked; it is probable that the roller printed cottons are of a later date. The black ground has diagonal lines of four-pointed stars each containing a swastika with a diamond centre. The colours of the lines alternate. From lower left to upper right: [1] blue star with white swastika and dark red star with white swastika; [2] pink star with dark blue swastika and orange star with cream swastika. The border is a blue ground with a line of pink cartouches and dark red octagonal stars. The backing consists of two pieces of roller-printed cotton. The larger section has a white ground almost entirely covered with grey leaves with small dark red flower heads. The smaller piece also has a white ground, with tiny flower heads with red centres, and dark purple leaves and purple coral-like patterns. The facing is in striped woven silk: [a] white ground with two types of small floral sprig in pink and green [b] red ground with two different small floral sprigs in green. There are narrow yellow and green stripes between [a] and [b]. Colours (Embroidery threads, 2S silk): orange, blue, dark blue, dark red, pink, black, white, cream and possibly other shades of off-white; (Backing): white, grey, red, dark red, purple; (Facing): white, pink, green, red, yellow.

Üretim This embroidery belongs to Group 3 as described by Jennifer Wearden, 'Azerbaijanian Embroideries: A Synthesis of Contrasts', Hali 59 (1991) pp. 102-111. Group 3 textiles are characterised by surface darning on the diagonal and date from the middle of the 18th century into the early part of the 19th century. A similar piece, catalogued as 17th/18th century, is Inv. No. 15-420 in the Iparmuveszeti Muzeum, Budapest. It was published by Zsuzsa Gombos in 'Azerbaijan', Hali 26 (April 1985) pp.26-29.

Üslup Caucasian