Author
Unknown
Publication Date
1820
Publication Place
Iran (made) -
Subject
Textiles
Type
Other
Language
Undetermined
Digital
Yes
Manuscript
No
Physical Dimensions
Minimum height: 28cm, Maximum height: 42cm, Circumference: 54cm
Library
Victoria and Albert Museum
Library Asset ID
952-1903
Record ID
952-1903
Library Location
Middle East Section
Date
1820
Notes
M, embroidered wool, 1800s, Persian; Inscription
Sample Text
Translation Main inscription reads: I, a dervish and beggar, do not equate my woollen hat with even a hundred of the crowns of Khosrou. Note Embroidered with black silk as part of the decoration. This hats bears some inscriptions about dervish attitudes; some parts are worn away and are not legible. The reference is to a great Sassanian king of the 6th century AD.
Malzemeler ve teknikler
woollen yarn, fur, silk thread, metal thread, weaving, sewing, embroidering
Fiziksel açıklama
Cap, felted plain weave wool, padded, lined with black Astrakhan lamb and woven wool, possibly twill tapestry, interlined with plain weave silk, embroidered with silk in running, chain and straight stitches and trimmed with metal thread. Four conical curved sections of plain weave felted scarlet red wool decorated along the contours with a composite edging, slightly wider at the base, of stepped diagonals either side of a band of small stepped lozenges in yellow, blue, white [A] or along the base yellow, black, green and white all in running stitches with the band outlines in chain stitch. The inner central space is divided into 2 zones by repeating [a], the upper triangular part decorated with 5 small cartouches outlined in blue, yellow and black, each containing a Shikashti [spelling?] inscription in one or two lines worked in black straight stitches, largely worn away. These bordered a triangular motif filled with stepped lozenges in green, yellow and blue. The lower part is rectangular containing a lobed cartouche outlined in green, white and black chain stitch framing a black and white inscription worked in straight stitches. Different on all 4 sides with an infill of a rosette and buds. The cap extends to form a flap along the bottom: it is interlined with heavy plain weave silk behind a pieced red woollen fabric, possibly twill tapestry, with offset rows of botehs densely infilled with fan-shaped floral motifs against a densely packed ground; the predominant colours are light and dark blue, lightgreen, yellow, pink and white. This flap is also lined with Astrakhan and could be used as a neck protector or could be it could be worn upturned at the front [see mid-17th century Safavid Court paintings]. Facing: originally along all the lower edges but now just along the lower edge of the flap. Largely distintegrated because of moth damage but originally a dark blue and white striped wool, possibly twill tapestry. Bias-cut, the stripes contain a leaf meander in yellow or light green with red, white and yellow details. Interlining: Where the facing has worn away it is possible to see an olive green plain weave silk interlining. Trimming: on all seams and along the edges is a metal thread braid. Embroidery Thread: silk, 2S. Metal Thread: silver-gilt strip close S-wound on yellow silk core.